Interview Questions for Garage Door Electrical Troubleshooting

Garage door openers primarily fall into two categories: belt-drive and chain-drive. Both utilize similar electrical components, but the mechanical drive differs. Let’s break down the key electrical parts:

• Motor: The heart of the system, usually a DC motor (direct current) that converts electrical energy into mechanical motion to lift and lower the door. Different horsepower ratings influence speed and lifting capacity.
• Control Board: The ‘brain’ of the opener. This circuit board receives signals from the remote, wall button, and safety sensors, controlling the motor’s operation and safety features. It often includes a capacitor for smoothing power fluctuations and potentially other components like limit switches.
• Remote Transmitter: A handheld device that sends radio frequency (RF) signals to the opener’s receiver. Different frequencies and encryption protocols exist to enhance security.
• Receiver: A component on the control board that decodes the RF signals from the remote.
• Wall Control Button/Switch: A wired switch, offering a backup method to operate the opener.
• Power Supply/Transformer: Steps down the household 120VAC (volts alternating current) to a lower voltage, typically 24VAC, needed for the motor and control board.
• Safety Sensors (Photoelectric Eyes): Infrared beams detect obstructions in the door’s path. These are crucial for safety.
• Capacitor (Often on Control Board): These smooth out electrical surges and ensure stable operation of the motor.

Belt-drive openers tend to be quieter due to the rubber belt, while chain-drive openers are generally more robust and less expensive.

Modern garage door openers prioritize safety. The key electrical safety features are:

• Automatic Reverse Mechanism: If the door encounters an obstacle during closing (detected by the photoelectric sensors), it reverses automatically preventing accidents and damage. This is essential for protecting people, pets and property.
• Rolling Code Technology: Most modern remotes use rolling code technology. This means each time you press the button, a different code is transmitted, making it extremely difficult for thieves to clone your remote’s signal.
• Force Sensing System: The control board monitors the motor’s current draw. If excessive force is detected (indicating a bind, obstruction, or malfunction), the motor stops to prevent damage.
• Safety Sensors/Photoelectric Eyes (Infrared): As mentioned previously, these are essential. They use infrared beams to detect anything in the door’s path. If the beam is broken, the door will not close. Regular testing of these sensors is crucial, and the control board will typically flash a warning light if they are misaligned or malfunctioning.
• Emergency Release Cord: This allows manual operation of the door in the event of a power outage or opener malfunction.

These features work together to create a safe and secure garage environment. Always test the safety features regularly. You should be able to easily cover the infrared sensor beam and test that the door reverses upon an obstruction.

Troubleshooting a garage door opener unresponsive to the remote involves a systematic approach. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

1. Check the batteries in the remote: This is the most common cause! Replace with fresh batteries.
2. Check the opener’s power supply: Ensure the opener is plugged in and receiving power. Check the breaker box for a tripped breaker.
3. Test the wall button: If the wall button works, the problem lies with the remote or its signal reception.
4. Check the antenna on the opener: Some openers have an external antenna that may be loose or damaged.
5. Resynchronize (reprogram) the remote: Consult your owner’s manual for specific instructions on how to reprogram your remote.
6. Check for signal interference: Metal objects, electronic devices, or even thick walls can interfere with the signal. Try moving the remote closer to the opener or moving any potential interference.
7. Examine the receiver on the control board: Check for any visible damage or loose connections.
8. Check the control board for error codes: Many openers will display error codes using LED lights; consult your owner’s manual for troubleshooting.

If none of these steps work, a professional garage door technician should be called in.

Garage door opener motor failure can stem from several causes:

• Overuse and Wear & Tear: Constant operation, particularly with heavy doors or frequent use, can wear out the motor’s components.
• Power Surges: Sudden voltage spikes can damage the motor’s windings or internal electronics. This is why a good capacitor is essential.
• Mechanical Problems: A jammed track, bent rollers, or broken springs can put excessive strain on the motor, leading to failure. Always check the entire system for mechanical issues.
• Overheating: The motor may overheat due to excessive strain or inadequate ventilation. A well-ventilated space for the opener is essential.
• Worn Gears or Belt/Chain: In chain-drive systems, a worn chain, and in belt-drive systems, a worn belt, increase strain on the motor, leading to premature failure.
• Internal Motor Component Failure: The motor’s internal windings or brushes (in brushed DC motors) can wear out or fail over time.

Diagnosing motor failure often requires testing the voltage and current, checking for burnt smells, or assessing for unusual noises during operation.

Testing the voltage and current of a garage door opener motor requires caution due to electrical hazards. Always disconnect the power before testing. A multimeter is essential for this task.

Voltage Test: With the power disconnected, use the multimeter to measure the voltage across the motor terminals (typically 24VAC). This verifies if the power supply is delivering the correct voltage. Ensure that your multimeter is set to measure AC voltage.

Current Test: This is best done while the motor is running (carefully). Set the multimeter to measure AC current (amps). Connect the multimeter in series with the motor’s power supply. This measures the current draw. Compare the reading to the motor’s rated current to check for overloads. High current draw could indicate a problem with the motor or a mechanical bind in the system. This test requires some electrical knowledge; it might be safer to have a professional perform this test.

Important Safety Note: Working with electricity can be dangerous. If you are not comfortable performing these tests, call a qualified electrician or garage door technician. Incorrect testing could lead to injury or damage to equipment.

Photoelectric sensors, or safety eyes, are infrared transmitters and receivers. The transmitter emits an infrared beam, which is detected by the receiver. If the beam is interrupted, the door stops or reverses. This prevents accidents.

Troubleshooting a malfunctioning sensor involves:

1. Check for obstructions: Dust, cobwebs, or even small objects blocking the beam can cause a malfunction. Clean the lenses carefully.
2. Alignment: Ensure both transmitter and receiver are aligned correctly. They often have small indicator lights to show when the beam is uninterrupted.
3. Wiring: Examine the wiring connecting the sensors to the control board for loose connections or damage.
4. Sensor Failure: If the problem persists, one of the sensors may be faulty and needs replacement. This usually means replacing the entire sensor pair.
5. Control Board Issue: In some cases, a problem with the control board could cause the sensors not to be properly monitored.

Testing the sensor usually involves simply covering the beam; the door should immediately reverse. It’s also important to test the sensors after cleaning and alignment to ensure they’re functioning correctly.

Limit switches determine the upper and lower limits of the door’s travel. If these are malfunctioning, the door may not open or close completely, or it might stop at incorrect positions.

Diagnosing and repairing a malfunctioning limit switch includes:

1. Identify the switches: Locate the limit switches on the opener’s carriage or rail assembly. They are often small, mechanical switches activated by a lever or cam.
2. Test the switches: Manually operate the door to the upper and lower limits. Observe the switches using a multimeter. When the door is in the correct position, the switches should engage. They should be open when the door is not at the limit. If the switches don’t engage when the door is in the correct position, the switch itself is likely at fault.
3. Adjust the switches: If the switches are not engaging properly, carefully adjust their position using the adjustment screws. This often requires precise positioning to prevent premature opening or closing.
4. Replace the switches: If adjustment doesn’t resolve the issue, replace the faulty switches. It is best to match the existing switch with a similar replacement.
5. Check the Control Board: In some cases, the control board may itself be faulty and not correctly interpret the signal from the limit switches.

When working with limit switches, precision is key. Incorrect adjustments can result in the door hitting its limits forcefully which could lead to damage. Always be careful during this process.

Safety is paramount when working with garage door electrical systems. Think of it like working with any electrical appliance – a lack of caution can lead to serious injury or even death. Always begin by disconnecting the power to the garage door opener at the breaker box. This is the single most important step. Don’t rely on just turning off the opener itself; you need to cut the power completely. Then, visually inspect the system for any obvious hazards, like frayed wires or exposed connections. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from potential debris. If you’re uncomfortable working with electricity, it’s always best to call a qualified professional. Never attempt repairs if you’re unsure of your abilities. Remember, safety first!

Unusual noises from your garage door opener are often a sign of a problem. Let’s think of it like a car; strange sounds usually indicate something’s wearing out or broken. First, identify the type of noise. Is it a grinding noise, a clicking noise, a squealing noise, or something else? A grinding noise often indicates a problem with the gears or tracks, while a clicking noise might point to a problem with the limit switches or safety sensors. A squealing noise often means something is rubbing against something else and needs lubrication. Once you’ve identified the sound, you can start troubleshooting. If it’s a grinding or squealing sound, lubrication might solve the issue; but if it’s a clicking noise, you’ll need to investigate the limit switches or safety sensors which may need adjustment or replacement. Always check the track for obstructions before lubrication or other repair attempts. If the noise persists after these steps, it might be time to call a professional.

Replacing a broken capacitor in a garage door opener isn’t something for a novice. Capacitors store electrical energy, and a faulty one can be dangerous. If you’re not comfortable working with electricity, call a professional. However, if you’re experienced and understand the risks, first, disconnect the power at the breaker box! Then, locate the capacitor, which is usually a cylindrical component on the motor control board. Carefully note its voltage and capacitance ratings before removing it. These are crucial for selecting a suitable replacement. Use a capacitor discharge tool to fully discharge the old capacitor before removing it to prevent electric shock. Then, carefully install the new capacitor, ensuring correct polarity (+ and -). Finally, reconnect the power and test the opener. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional or the opener’s service manual. The wrong capacitor can damage other components.

Replacing a garage door opener motor is a more advanced repair. Before you begin, completely disconnect the power at the breaker box. Then, carefully remove the opener’s housing cover. Next, disconnect all wiring from the old motor. Take pictures or make detailed notes to ensure you reconnect everything correctly. Now, carefully remove the mounting bolts securing the old motor and remove it from the opener. Carefully install the new motor, ensuring it’s securely mounted. Reconnect the wires exactly as they were before, referring to your notes or photos. Finally, reconnect the power at the breaker box and test the opener. Make sure the door operates smoothly and safely in both directions. If you’re uncomfortable performing this repair, it’s best to call a professional. A faulty installation can lead to significant damage.

Testing the wiring of a garage door opener requires a multimeter. First, disconnect the power at the breaker box! Then, use the multimeter to check for continuity in each wire. This means checking if the circuit is complete, indicating no breaks in the wiring. You’ll also use the multimeter to check for voltage at different points in the circuit. The specific tests depend on the type of opener and the problem you’re trying to solve. For example, you may test the wires connecting the wall button to the opener’s receiver. Or, you may test the wires connecting the motor to the control board. A continuity test will show if there’s a break in the circuit while a voltage test will reveal if power is getting to the component. Always carefully consult a wiring diagram for your specific opener model. Incorrect testing can lead to damage or injury.

Essential tools for troubleshooting garage door electrical systems include:

• A multimeter (to check voltage and continuity)
• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• Wire strippers/cutters
• Pliers (needle-nose and lineman’s)
• Safety glasses
• A capacitor discharge tool
• Flashlight
• Voltage tester (non-contact)
• Wrench (for some motor applications)

Having these tools on hand makes diagnosing and repairing problems much easier. Always prioritize safety and choose tools appropriate for the job.

Diagnosing a short circuit in a garage door opener’s wiring can be challenging. A short circuit is when two wires that shouldn’t be touching, do touch, causing a significant increase in current which might even lead to a fire. First, always disconnect the power at the breaker box! Then, carefully inspect all wiring for any visible damage or fraying. Pay close attention to areas where wires are bundled tightly together or near moving parts. Use your multimeter to check for continuity between different wires that shouldn’t be connected. A short will show a low resistance reading. If you find a short, you’ll need to carefully repair the damaged wiring. This might involve replacing damaged sections of wire or repairing connections. It is often safer to replace damaged sections than attempt to repair them. If you can’t locate the short visually, a more advanced diagnostic approach may be necessary.

An intermittently operating garage door opener is frustrating! The problem could stem from several sources, so a systematic approach is key. We’ll start with the simplest checks and move to more complex diagnostics.

1. Check the Power Supply: The most obvious culprit is a power issue. Ensure the opener is properly plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn’t tripped (we’ll discuss circuit breakers further in another question). Also, check the outlet for power using a voltage tester or a simple lamp.

2. Examine the Remote/Wall Switch: Test multiple remotes or the wall-mounted switch. If only one remote fails, it might be a battery issue. If all remotes fail intermittently, the problem likely lies within the opener itself.

3. Inspect the Safety Sensors: These infrared sensors, located near the floor on either side of the door opening, prevent the door from closing on obstructions. If they’re misaligned, obstructed, or dirty, the opener might stop intermittently. Clean the lenses and ensure the sensors are aligned—a green light usually indicates proper alignment.

4. Look for Loose Connections: Inside the opener housing, check all wiring connections for looseness. A loose connection can cause intermittent operation due to poor contact. Carefully tighten any loose screws or wires. Warning: Disconnect the power before doing any internal work!

5. Assess the Capacitor (Advanced): In some cases, a failing capacitor can cause intermittent issues. This requires more advanced electrical knowledge and is best left to professionals if you’re unsure. A capacitor is a component that stores electrical energy and its failure might lead to inconsistent power delivery.

6. Motor Issues (Advanced): A faulty motor, though less common with intermittent problems, can also cause this. The motor itself can experience wear, creating erratic operation. This usually requires a motor replacement.

Remember safety first! Always disconnect the power before working on the garage door opener’s internal components.

The control board is the ‘brain’ of your garage door opener, controlling all functions from opening and closing the door to safety features and lighting. It receives signals from remotes, wall switches, and safety sensors, processing this information to send appropriate signals to the motor.

Troubleshooting a control board can be tricky. Since it’s an electronic component, you usually can’t fix it yourself. However, we can diagnose potential issues:

1. Check for Obvious Damage: Inspect the board for any burn marks, swollen capacitors, or broken components. Visible damage usually indicates a replacement is necessary.

2. Verify Power Supply: Ensure the board receives proper voltage. Use a multimeter (we’ll discuss this in another question) to test the input voltage to the board. This ensures the board isn’t starving of power.

3. Test the Remote Signals (Advanced): Using a multimeter, you can test for continuity in the receiver circuits (if you’re comfortable with electronics). This confirms that the control board correctly receives signals from the remote transmitters.

4. Check the Motor Connection (Advanced): Make sure the connections between the control board and the motor are secure. Loose or corroded connections can impede signal transmission.

If you find any issues, replacing the control board is usually the solution. It’s crucial to purchase a replacement board that’s compatible with your opener’s model.

A tripped circuit breaker related to your garage door opener usually indicates an overload or a short circuit in the opener’s electrical system. Here are the most common causes:

• Overcurrent: The opener’s motor draws a significant amount of current. If the motor stalls (e.g., because the door is obstructed), this can trip the breaker as it attempts to overcome resistance.

• Short Circuit: A short circuit occurs when there’s an unintended path for electricity to flow, usually due to faulty wiring or damaged components inside the opener. This often leads to a sudden surge of current, tripping the breaker.

• Worn-out Motor: An old or worn-out motor might draw excessive current, potentially tripping the breaker.

• Loose Wiring: Loose or poorly connected wires within the opener can arc and cause a short circuit, leading to a tripped breaker.

If the breaker keeps tripping, do not repeatedly reset it! This is a critical safety precaution. It indicates a persistent problem that needs professional attention or repair to prevent electrical hazards.

Differentiating between mechanical and electrical problems in a garage door opener involves careful observation and testing. Here’s a breakdown:

Mechanical Problems: These usually involve the physical components of the system—the door itself, springs, tracks, rollers, and the opener’s mechanical parts (gears, chains, belts).

• Symptoms: The door might be slow, noisy, bind on the tracks, or simply not move at all, even if the motor runs. You might hear unusual grinding, creaking, or banging sounds.

• Diagnosis: Visually inspect the entire door system, including tracks, rollers, springs, and cables. Look for bent tracks, broken rollers, damaged springs, or anything binding the door’s movement.

Electrical Problems: These problems stem from the opener’s electrical components—the motor, control board, wiring, remotes, safety sensors, and power supply.

• Symptoms: The opener may not respond to the remote or wall switch, it may operate intermittently, or the motor may run but the door won’t move. There could be no lights or unusual buzzing sounds.

• Diagnosis: Check the power supply, remotes, safety sensors, and wiring connections. Use a multimeter to test voltage and continuity in various parts of the electrical circuit.

Often, problems are a mix of both mechanical and electrical issues. A binding door can strain the motor, leading to electrical problems. Troubleshooting requires a methodical approach, addressing mechanical problems first before moving onto the electrical components.

A multimeter is an essential tool for diagnosing electrical problems in garage door openers. It allows you to measure voltage, current, and resistance. Here’s how to use it:

1. Voltage Measurement: Check the voltage at the outlet to ensure power is reaching the opener. Set the multimeter to AC voltage (typically around 120V in North America). Then, probe the hot and neutral wires (after ensuring the power is off!). A reading close to the nominal voltage indicates proper power supply. Measure the voltage at the input terminals of the control board to see if it’s receiving power correctly.

2. Continuity Testing: Check for continuity in wires and components. This confirms if there’s a closed path for electricity to flow. Set the multimeter to the continuity mode (often a diode symbol). The buzzer or a low resistance reading indicates a closed path (good connection), while no buzzer sound suggests an open circuit (break in the path). This is important for checking wiring and switches.

3. Resistance Measurement: Measure the resistance of components such as the motor windings. This helps identify open circuits or shorted windings. Disconnect the component before measuring. However, measuring resistance of many components within the opener is typically beyond the scope of a homeowner.

Important Safety Note: Always disconnect the power supply before using a multimeter on any electrical components. Improper use can lead to electric shock.

A garage door opener that runs but doesn’t open or close indicates a problem that’s likely mechanical, even though the motor is functioning. Here’s a systematic approach:

1. Check the Safety Sensors: The most common culprit is misaligned or obstructed safety sensors. Ensure they’re correctly aligned and nothing is blocking the infrared beam. Remember the green light indicates proper alignment.

2. Inspect the Chain/Belt: Check that the chain or belt is properly engaged with the motor and sprocket. A disengaged chain or belt means the motor cannot turn the door.

3. Examine the Rollers and Tracks: A stuck or broken roller, or debris on the tracks, can prevent the door from moving even if the motor is running. Carefully inspect the entire track and rollers. Clear out any obstructions and lubricate the rollers (if needed).

4. Assess the Springs (Advanced): If you’re comfortable, visually inspect the springs. Broken or severely damaged springs can prevent the door from moving. If you suspect spring issues, this warrants professional assistance as they can be dangerous.

5. Check the Limit Switches (Advanced): These switches tell the opener where to stop the door. If they are misadjusted or faulty, the opener may think it’s at the top or bottom even if it isn’t. Adjusting or replacing these switches is an advanced task and may require specialized tools.

Remember: Safety first! Never attempt to repair severely damaged springs or heavily worn components yourself; instead, call a professional.

Most modern garage door openers utilize DC (Direct Current) motors, but some older models might have AC (Alternating Current) motors. Here’s a comparison:

• AC Motors (Older Models): Simpler in design and generally less expensive to manufacture. They are typically more robust and easier to repair, but can be less efficient and noisier compared to DC motors.

• DC Motors (Modern Models): More efficient, quieter, and offer smoother operation due to their ability to precisely control speed and torque. They are often more complex, requiring more sophisticated control electronics (control board).

The key differences stem from how they control the speed and direction of the door. AC motors rely on simple switching, while DC motors utilize electronic speed controllers for more precise movement. This allows for features like soft-start and soft-stop, improving safety and extending the lifespan of the opener.

Troubleshooting a garage door opener remote usually involves a systematic approach. First, check the remote’s batteries – this is the most common cause of failure. Replace them with fresh ones, ensuring correct polarity. If the issue persists, examine the remote’s circuitry for any visible damage. Look for cracks, loose wires, or corrosion, which can disrupt signal transmission. Sometimes, a simple reset might be needed; consult your remote’s manual for instructions, often involving pressing and holding specific buttons. If there are still problems, the issue might lie in the receiver unit on the garage door opener itself. The receiver may need to be reprogrammed; this typically involves a learn button on the opener unit itself, which you’ll need to press while simultaneously pressing a button on the remote.

For instance, I once dealt with a client whose remote stopped working after a power surge. It wasn’t the batteries; a closer examination revealed a burnt component inside the remote. Replacing the remote resolved the problem. Remember to always disconnect the power supply to the garage door opener before attempting any repair work involving its internal components.

Installing a new garage door opener motor and wiring requires careful attention to safety and proper procedures. Begin by disconnecting the power to the opener. Then, carefully detach the old motor assembly from the opener’s trolley system and remove any associated wiring. Note the wiring configuration before disconnecting anything – take pictures or make detailed sketches. The new motor typically comes with its own instruction manual. Follow it meticulously. During wiring, pay close attention to color-coding; ensure that every wire from the new motor connects to the correct terminal on the opener’s circuit board.

For example, common wires include power (usually black and white), limit switches (often red and green for up and down respectively), and safety sensors (yellow and brown are frequent choices). Once all the wiring is complete, test the new motor’s function by carefully running the door up and down using the wall control or remote control. Remember to reconnect the power supply only when all wiring connections are double-checked. Incorrect wiring can lead to malfunction or even fire.

Working on high-voltage circuits in garage door openers poses significant safety hazards. The most prominent danger is electrical shock, potentially leading to serious injury or even death. Improper handling can cause burns or arc flashes. Moreover, incorrect wiring can result in short circuits, creating the risk of electrical fires. Therefore, before undertaking any work, always disconnect the power supply to the garage door opener. Use a voltage tester to confirm that the power is truly off before touching any wires or components. If you are uncomfortable working with electricity, it’s best to contact a qualified electrician.

I remember an incident where a homeowner attempted to repair his opener without disconnecting the power. He received a severe shock, highlighting the crucial importance of safety protocols. Always prioritize safety – your health is paramount.

A garage door opener running too slowly or too quickly often points towards issues with the motor, the limit switches, or the opener’s settings. If the opener is slow, there may be problems with lubrication, a worn-out motor, or issues with the drive system’s gears or belts. Inspect the moving parts for any signs of wear or damage. If it’s running too quickly, the limit switches may be misadjusted or faulty, causing the door to travel further than it should. In this case, adjust the limit switches, ensuring that they accurately register the upper and lower positions of the door. Sometimes, the problem lies within the opener’s internal settings – consult the manual for instructions on adjusting travel speed.

For example, a slow-moving door I worked on had a severely worn belt. Replacement resolved the speed issue. On another occasion, a door’s rapid movement was due to improperly adjusted limit switches; adjusting them solved the problem.

Testing garage door safety sensor wiring involves using a multimeter set to the continuity test mode. First, disconnect the power to the opener. Next, locate the wires connecting to the safety sensors. The sensors usually have two wires each (typically yellow and brown, but colors may vary). With the multimeter probes, test the continuity between the corresponding wires of each sensor. If there is continuity, the wiring is likely sound. Absence of continuity may indicate a broken wire. You should also check the sensors themselves for damage or misalignment. They must be properly aligned and spaced – often a small gap, usually about an inch, is required between the sensors for proper operation. Finally, re-connect the power and test the safety mechanism by placing an object in the sensor’s path. The door should stop when the sensors detect an obstacle. If the safety sensor system still doesn’t work even with good continuity in the wiring, the sensor unit itself needs replacement.

My experience encompasses a wide variety of garage door opener wiring configurations. I’ve worked with both older and newer systems, each with its own unique setup. Some older models utilized simpler wiring schemes, while modern systems may incorporate advanced features like battery backup, Wi-Fi connectivity, and integrated lighting, thus having more complex wiring setups. Common wire colors and functions typically include power (black, white, red), safety sensors (yellow, brown), limit switches (red, green), and motor control wires (various colors depending on the specific brand). I’m familiar with both direct-wired and wireless setups, as well as those using different types of control boards. The key is to understand the function of each wire and to meticulously document the wiring configuration before making any modifications.

For instance, one project involved converting an older system with a direct-wired motor to a newer opener with Wi-Fi capabilities. This required not only understanding the basic wiring but also managing the integration of the new wireless module. My experience includes working with various brands and models, which has allowed me to handle all types of wiring setups.

When a customer’s garage door is stuck due to an electrical failure, my first step is to ensure safety by disconnecting the power to the opener. I then proceed to systematically identify the problem. This often involves using a multimeter to check for power at the opener’s input, checking the circuit breaker or fuse in the electrical panel, and examining the wiring for any loose connections, breaks, or damage. I then carefully trace the wiring to isolate the fault, often checking components like the motor, the circuit board, and the safety sensors. Depending on the nature of the failure, I may replace a damaged part, repair a faulty wire, or replace the entire opener if necessary. In certain emergency situations, a temporary solution, such as manually disconnecting the safety sensors (after disconnecting the power) to allow the door to be operated, might be necessary, but always with an explanation to the client that this is a temporary fix to allow entry and is not a permanent solution.

I once had a call where a severe thunderstorm caused a power surge, frying the opener’s circuit board. Replacing the board restored functionality, highlighting the importance of surge protectors.